East Ridge Direct of Forbidden Peak (July 31, 1997)

We car camped at the turnoff, and got up t 4:30am. Hiking by 5, we reached the ridge at 10 (this was pretty decent time, considering we lost the trail and spend 1/2 hr bushbashing on the way up -- inexcusable, I know, but I was still sleeping...). The snow was very hard -- crampons would've been nice, but not crucial, in places we cut a few steps. Started climbing at 10:30, summited at 1. We simul-climbed pretty much the whole thing. K let the 1st 3ish, I the next. We bypassed only the 3rd tower, which I now regret, as it is so cool looking. We set up a proper belay in the U-notch and K led the 5.8 pitch. From the top of the U-notch, we simuled to the summit. On the descent, we rapped 5 times (single rope) and then simuled the whole way on the legdes, reaching the ridge a little too soon (stay lower longer and it it easier -- we gained the ridge about ropelength W of the small tower which lies just W of the start gendarme). The descent took 2 1/2 hrs. We ate and rested and started down at 4:30 and reached the car in under 3 hrs. Gorgeous weather, nice views.

Total trip time: 14+ exhausting hours...

Rack and gear:

* One rope * Medium Rack 1 set stoppers #2 TCU, Friends 1, 1.5, 2, #1 and #2 camelot. 12 free biners (oops, too few) 6-7 double slings 8 singles. * Ice axe.